We had arrived in Cartagena, the second city on our honeymoon trip of only 9 days….our little hostal was inside the old walls (Las Murallas) the ancient fort that protected the Cartagenian people from pirates, wars over land and gold. Juan at the Hostal told us to go down the corner and catch a tram bus to the Mercado for authentic Colombian style food. A few stops away from the heavily touristed area El Centro was this amazing open market. Descalped cow heads, curandero shops selling herbs and health potions, fish and seafood everywhere and the locals going about the business of selling their goods to one another. We sat outside near a stand selling food.As the matron lady chided us and persisted on calling us to try her plates a bird flew down from the roof and stole a piece of octopus from her large steaming hand forged copper plate filled with this dish. We had a good laugh as she swung her spoon at the bird who easily got away…flying off with the tentacles hanging from it’s beak….I will never forget that Paella because it was a merger of the local Criole culture and how it took Paella and made it it’s own….